Friday, June 11, 2010

Singapore : From One End of Orchard Road to the Other


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Paris has its Champs Elysee, the world famous boulevard where both locals and visitors take part in the fashionable promenade, alongside exclusive boutiques, high priced sidewalk cafes and some of the most elegant, refined and sought after members of the European elite.

On the other part  of the world, Singapore has its own Orchard Road — and while it might not have the cool sophistication of its Parisian counterpart, it does beat the French avenue hands down in one area; shopping.
 
The best way to appreciate this is to stand on the corner of the intersection of Orchard Road, Scott Road and Paterson Road and look down the length of Orchard Road. You’ll immediately notice the resemblance to the Champs Elysee; with pavements and broad pedestrian ways, sheltered by great tropical trees, beneath which stroll the fashionably dressed, the elegantly sophisticated and the gawking curious. There is one major difference however; where the Champs-Elysee is lined by the elegant façade of 18th century buildings, discreetly housing the most prestigious boutiques and restaurants in the city, Orchard Road is flanked for as far as the eye can see by the hugely varied bulk of shopping malls, more shopping malls and still more shopping malls. There is a statistic floating around that Orchard Road has the highest concentration of shopping malls per square kilometre of any city on earth — and gazing down that impressive stretch, there’s no reason to doubt it!
 
Orchard Road of the Past

The trendy boulevard of today has come a long way from its dusty, country road roots.  Unlike many roads in Singapore, Orchard Road was not named after any particular person, but was instead named after the many nutmeg plantations, pepper farms and fruit orchards that used to line the street in the 1830s. It was a quiet area until the late 1960s, when a few enterprising Chinese businessmen saw the potential and turned it into a major business district. Over time, the area has developed, until it has become the behemoth of shopping it is today. Little sign of its past remains, though the names of plantation owners like Oxley, Carnie (Cairnhill) and Cuppage are immortalized in the street names of the area.


A walk down Orchard Road is one of those ‘must-do’ activities for visitors coming to Singapore, and there’s plenty to see and do. Technically, the Orchard Road district begins at the Ming Hotel on Tanglin Road and finishes at the circle at Cathay. Most people however prefer to mark their walk down the road by the shopping mall they pass along its length! There's certainly plenty of those, so lets start at the beginning...


A Slow Stroll Down The Boulevard...

If you’re particularly wealthy, you can start your promenade at the Tanglin Shopping Centre at the very head of Orchard Road, which offers plenty of shops dealing in antiques, souvenirs, exquisite Persian, Pakistani, and Afghanistan carpets and discreet tailors. Further down the road, there is the Palais Renaissance. This marble edifice, as its posh name suggests, is distinctly upmarket, and offers a superb range of prestigious, exclusive boutiques that carry top-notch international designer labels. Incidentally, just behind the Palais is the Royal Thai Embassy, the last remaining embassy in the Orchard Road area after all other governments fled from the sky-rocketing property prices.

For the less well-heeled people however, the most commonly walked stretch of Orchard Road starts from the Scotts/Paterson Road intersection and heads down Orchard Road until just a little before the Dhoby Ghaut MRT station, a good two kilometres away. Right on the corner of the Scotts Road intersection is Shaw House. Like many shopping malls, it is better known for the major international company which serves as an anchor store, which in this case is Isetan. Popular for the Japanese  bookstore chain Kinokuniya, it’s a major youth hangout thanks to the internet cafes and the Lido cinema on the upper level (which brings echoes of the Champs Elysee). 





Opposite the road and accessible via an underground passageway is Tang’s, emporium of the influential Tang family and one of the first shopping malls to be built on Orchard Road, back when it was still barely more than a quiet country street in 1932. The shopping centre has been catering for every need since then, and is still going strong today. Above the Tangs emporium is Marriot Hotel, just one of many hotels dotted along the length of the road.

Further down the road (and sharing the corners of the Bideford Road intersection with Ngee Ann City, Mandarin Hotel and the Crown Prince Hotel) is the Paragon, a low glassy architectural puzzle which offers more high-class boutiques. Incidentally, if you’re having trouble finding taxis along Orchard Road (and you probably will), the taxi stand on Bideford Road just next to Paragon almost always sports a taxi or two.

Opposite Paragon is the Ngee Ann City shopping mall, offering the giant Japanese anchor chain Takashimaya, which won the Tourism award for Best Shopping Experience. This shopping mall is best known for having better architecture than the majority of the malls along the road, a remarkably well stocked and popular food court. It is also popular because once you’ve entered, you can descent to the lower levels and continue moving underground in an air conditioned comfort to the adjacent shopping mall, Wisma Atria.

The underground complex offers a passage to the Lucky Plaza shopping centre on the other side of the road, so you can avoid the hassle of waiting at the traffic lights to cross the road. Lucky Plaza offers a little bit of everything and apparently appeals especially to teenagers, if you’re interested. Behind Lucky Plaza is Mount Elizabeth Hospital, one of the most advanced institutions in the Asian region. Though definitely not a tourist attraction, it is a popular destination for international visitors looking for medical treatment, and is even reportedly equipped with luxury suites, complete with gold toilets and taps, for when royalty from a certain oil-rich sultanate visit.

The underground complex also offers direct access the Orchard Road MRT station, just beyond the beautiful marine aquarium, which has become a landmark. The city’s ubiquitous public transport network is fast, cheap and reliable. The MRT is a great way to travel if you’d rather avoid the muggy heat outside, but it does mean missing out on fascinating human scenery you’d see above-ground.

 
An eyeful of scenery

One of the best thing about walking along the boulevard is the opportunity to see and be seen. Orchard Road is prime posing ground for the city’s young and well heeled, where many yuppies come to display their wealth and status, bought from expensive perfume counters and exclusive boutiques along the avenue. Orchard Road is where the beautiful and the sophisticated come to show off and if it’s an eyeful of Singaporean beauty you want, then there’s no better way to get it than a stroll down the pedestrian walks on a not-too-hot Saturday afternoon.

There are also plenty of international visitors to look at. The Singapore Tourism Board has been trying to promote Orchard Road as a tourist centre, and it has been fairly successful, at least in drawing tourist shoppers — the boulevard is often packed with visitors from Europe and the States doing their best to empty their wallets before boarding the plane home. In recent years, the Middle Easterners have joined the stream of international buyers, and it’s no longer uncommon to see the women, still clad in black djabellas, tramping around with armload of shopping bags.

 
Moving Along...

The trendiest and most expensive shopping centres are congregated around the Scotts Road intersection up to about the Bideford Road intersection. Moving further down the road, the shopping malls become distinctly less pricey and sophisticated. The transition occurs right about the point where the nearest MRT station becomes not Orchard Road, but either Somerset or Dhoby Ghaut. Still, that doesn’t mean you should abandon the promenade, as there’s still a couple of interesting destinations further on.

Beyond the Bideford intersection and a little way down is Peranakan Place (pictured above), a short stretch of shop houses preserved from the 1920’s and restored to a glorious new life as a tourist destination for those who wants a taste of Singaporean history, without actually leaving the commercial delights of Orchard Road. Just next to Peranakan place is the one-stop shopping mall Centrepoint. Housing the tourism-award winning (Best Retail Outlet) anchor chain Robinson & Co, this mall is a popular provider of everyday goods, and a favoured destination for shoppers who wants to say they bought their goods from Orchard Road, without paying Orchard Road prices. Across the road (again, via an underground passage) is the Somerset MRT station located just behind the Specialist’s Shopping Centre.

Moving further along is Le Meridien Singapore Shopping Centre, topped by the Meridien Hotel. Opposite the shopping centre is the Penang Road Park, which offers a touch of peaceful greenery amidst all the concrete and commercialism. A little further down is the Istana Park, complete with a pond, while further still is the Dhoby Ghaut MRT station, opposite a row of international fast food restaurants.

It is at about Dhoby Ghaut that Orchard Road finally peters out, changing its name to Bras Basah Road (which, if you’re interested to know, means Wet Rice).From this point onwards, the road becomes more and more business-like and practical, leaving its glitzy sophisticated malls behind for office buildings, museums and other less trendy attractions.


When To Visit?

Orchard Road is a grand place to visit at any time of the year, but a particularly good time is during the Great Singapore Sale, held for six weeks from May to July. During these crazy periods, every shopping mall competes in slashing their prices. The bargains are plentiful, with many designer goods going for anything from 50% to 70% off. As you can imagine this a crowded and frenzied time! Other good times to visit are during festivals like Christmas, the trees lining the avenue are festooned with lights, making a night time promenade particularly delightful. 


 
During Chinese New Year, dragon dances are held along Orchard Road and once a year, the Chingay Parade 




makes its way down the boulevard, showing off all aspects of Singapore’s culture in a pageantry of floats, marching bands and dancing dragons and lions. If you miss any of these occasions however, never fear — there’s always something to do or buy to console yourself in the many malls of Orchard Road!





  
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The Monument of Everlasting Love - Taj Mahal

There is no greater and more inspirational love story thanthe one that lies at the foundation of perhaps the most lavish mausoleum ever build in history. The Taj Mahal Standing at 180 feet tall, the Taj Mahal is located on the bank of River Yamuna, in the heart of the small town of Agra in India. This town was once the capital of the Mughal Empire between the 16th and the 18th centuries and the Taj Mahal, argubaly the finest example of Mughal architecture, is on of the main reason why people flock to this sleepy town each year.


The story behind Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal was once described by Sir Edwin Arnold, an English poet, as `not a piece of architecture, as other buildings are, but the proud passion of an emperor's love wrought in living stones.` No description could been more apt. The name `Taj Mahal` means `Crown Palace` in the Persian language, but it is also said to be abbreviated form of the name of the woman who had inspired it. Shah Jahan, the Mughal Emperor at that time, erected the Taj Mahal in the memory of his beloved wife, Arjumand Bano Begum, who was better known as Mumtaz Mahal, or `Distinguished of the Palace’. 

Mumtaz Mahal died while giving birth to their fourteenth child. The story has it that before her death, she extracted four promises from the emperor– first, he should build a monument in her memory; second, he would marry again after her death; third, he would always be kind to their children; and fourth, he would visit her tomb on the anniversary of her death each year. After her death, Shah Jahan was reportedly inconsolable and dedicated the rest of his life to building the most magnificent monument possible for his late wife – and what monument it was. 


Construction began in 1631 and took 22 years to complete, with a workforce of more than twenty thousand men and one thousand elephants. The building materials were transported from all over India and central Asia. It was primarily built of white marble, in some parts inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones such as jasper, lapis lazuli and sapphire. The whole building consists of a complex of inter-connected parts, with the white-domed mausoleum containing the tombs forming the centerpiece. 


The work of art called the Taj Mahal

Surrounding the complex is a formal Mughal garden divided into four parts called the `charbagh’ - measuring 300m x 300m with sunken landscapes, flowerbeds, raised pathways, avenues of trees, fountains, water courses and pools. A long marble water tank in the centre before the main building reflects it perfectly in the water. Walls made of crenellated red sandstone surrounds the complex and its garden, except on the side that faces the river. The main gateway, called the `darwaza’, forms the entrance into the garden, its archways mirroring the mausoleum’s and sporting similar design elements and calligraphic adornment. Further towards the end, two grand red sandstone buildings stand on the sides of the mausoleum, mirroring each other: one is the mosque and the other one is the `answer’ or `jawab’. The main differences between these two buildings is that unlike the mosque, the jawab contains no `mihrab’ – a niche in the wall facing the Mecca, and where the mosque’s black marble floor is decorated with the outlines of 569 prayer rugs, the jawab has intricate geometric patterns.

The main structure of the Taj Mahal – the mausoleum itself - stands on a square plinth. One of its most magical attractions is that it seems to continually change colour: in the moonlight, it glows silvery white, while during sunset, the stones are suffused with a warm pink glow and during sunrise, a golden tinge. Standing two stories tall, it is topped with a marble dome about 35 metres in height, which is capped with a gilded finial. Flanking the mausoleum are four marble pillars or minarets, each more than 40 metres in height and incorporating the same design elements as the main building. The minarets were constructed slightly out of plumb, so that in the event of an earthquake which may bring about the collapse of the building, the minarets would fall away from the tomb.

The Taj Mahal is a combination of Indian and Persian elements, with strong Islamic influences as well as early Mughal architecture. As you wander through the complex, you can see the uniformity in the design and decorative elements used throughout the complex. Some of the most detailed and intricate work can be found within the building itself. Geometric designs decorate the insides of the domes, and intricate carvings can be seen on the pillars. The entrance archways are decorated with calligraphies depicting selected verses from the Qur’an. The builders’ attention to detail was exacting to an extraordinary degree: for instance, when the calligraphies were etched, the optical perspective of the viewer was taken into account, and the calligraphers made sure to increase the size and spacing of the letters as they reached higher, so that to the viewer down below, everything looked even and uniform.

The focal point of the entire mausoleum is the tomb of Mumtaz Mahal, which sits in the exact centre of the structure, deep within the mausoleum. Beside the ornate central tomb is a second tomb, the single object that disturbs the symmetry of the entire complex. This second tomb is for the Emperor, Shah Jahan himself. An octagonal marble screen featuring intricate designs pierced onto its surface surrounds the tombs within. These ornate tombs are only replicas of the real ones, which are situated deep within the underground chamber, exactly beneath their replicas. Calligraphic inscriptions on the marble caskets (which are inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones) identify the bodies that lay beneath. 


The legends surrounding Taj Mahal

According to popular Indian legend, Shah Jahan ordered everyone who was involved in the building of Taj Mahal to be blinded and their arms amputated, so that nothing as magnificent would ever be built again. Soon after the completion of the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan was overthrown by his own son Aurangzeb, and locked up in the nearby Agra Fort. It was here that he spent the rest of his days forlornly gazing out the window at the monument he had lovingly built for his wife.

When he died, his son had him buried next to his wife in the Taj Mahal, an act seen not as an honour to his father’s love for his wife, but to spite his magnificent creation, as this move had indirectly caused a blemish to the otherwise perfectly symmetrical building.

It was also believed that an identical building was supposed to be built on the other side of the river, across the Taj Mahal. This building was to be built out of black marble, and was supposed to be the final resting place of Shah Jahan himself, but his son took over the throne before the `Black Taj’ could be built. The ruins of dark-coloured marble that can be found across the river were believed to be the unfinished base for the `Black Taj’.

The town of Agra can be reached via express train from India’s capital, New Delhi, which takes about one and a half hour. Immerse yourself in the magic of the Taj Mahal, preferably in the company of a loved one. 
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Indonesia's Secret Island-Getaways - Bintan & Batam

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Looking for a quick, hassle-free island getaway? One of South-East Asia’s best kept secrets is actually a pair of islands, the idyllic resort destination of Bintan and its sister island Batam. Popular with Singaporeans for spur-of-the moment vacations and virtually unknown otherwise, these two islands offer everything you’d wish for in a South-East Asian tropical holiday destination, and then some.



 
Bintan: Resort Island Extraordinaire
 
Located 45 kilometre’s south east of Singapore, the island of Bintan is the largest of over 3,000 islands in the Riau archipelago. Despite being in another country (and one hour behind), Bintan is remarkably easy to get to from Singapore, being barely an hour’s boat ride away, and as such is a popular weekend retreat for stress-out executives and families. 
 
There are a wide variety of accommodation options, ranging from the truly opulent to the more modest establishments. Regardless of how fancy the hotels are, all the resorts in Bintan are uniform in their family-oriented, wholesome appeal. The resorts also differ in their focus: some are known for their watersports activities, others for their great golfing and still others for luxurious pampering at their spas. As you can see, there’s something to cater to every budget and desired activity!
 
The two of the most popular resorts in Bintan are Bintan Resorts, a massive development to the north of the Island, and Nirwana Resort Gardens, which, true to its name, is set in over 330 hectares of lush gardens. Somewhat unusually, each resort offers at least three individual kinds of hotels, which in turn offer different types of accommodations, to cater to every budget and need. For example, there are rooms and suites under the Nirwana Resort Hotel, one bedroom chalets under Mayang Sari, two or three bedroom villas under Banyu Biru and two or three bedroom villas with a pool under Indra Maya. Incidentall, the villas each come with your own personal buggy, for jaunts around the resort.
 
There are plenty of things to do in Bintan, and as you’d expect from a tropical island, one of the biggest draws is the beach. From pure white sands to crystal clear azure waters and vibrant coral reefs, you’ll find everything you’d expect here, and it therefore comes as no surprise to learn that watersports are Bintan’s most popular activities. Whether its kayaking, snorkelling or just floating in the water, there’s plenty of water-related activities for the visitor to indulge in. One of the more popular activities is scuba-diving, a pleasant prospect at Bintan as the waters are usually gentle enough for even novices. The best diving is between April and October, and there’s plenty to see — giant oysters, squid, nudibranches and sea cucumbers are just some of the things you can spot in the waters off Bintan. Occasionally, there are even dolphin sightings!
On land, the most popular sports activity is golfing. The island has several excellent golf courses, designed by such masters as Jack Nicklaus, Gary Player and Ian Baker-Finch. A fair number of visitors, in particular the Singaporeans, make the trip across the waters just for the golfing, especially on the weekends. Fortunately, there are plenty of other activities — both organized and non-organized — for the rest of the family. For those who particularly enjoy pampering, most resorts offer excellent spa amenities, with a wide range of therapeautic and beauty treatments; for the children, there’s everything from watersports to go-cart tracks, jungle tours and organized games.
With all the activities and entertainments available, many visitors never venture outside the boundaries of the resort, but for those who do, there are a number of interesting places to visit around the rest of the island. Usually, the first visit is to Bintan’s tiny capital is Tanjung Pinang, a quiet little town which tends to remind the occasional Malaysian visitor of Penang, twenty or so years ago. There are small, cement-floored grocery shops, stocked with everything from shrimp paste to toilet scrubs; streets where the most common motorized transport is the little kapchai, or motorbike, and not much else. Many of the houses on the waterfront are build on stilted and connected by walkways,
A ten-minute boat ride away is Pulau Penyengat. Nowadays home to nothing more than a sleepy little village, this tiny island was once the refuge of the Malacca Sultanate, which once ruled over the Malacca straits from the citadel on the Malaysian peninsula. When the Portuguese armada fell on their capital in 1512, the remnants of the sultanate fled here, where they set up court and established a flourishing trading nation, controlling many of the Riau islands and drawing visitors from as far as India and China. For a time, it was one of the wealthiest kingdoms in straits, but today, little remains except for the tombs of the sultans and a rare handwritten Qu’ran held in the keeping of the 170-year old mosque. Even if there’s little physical evidence left, the legacy of that ancient kingdom still continues, as the language of the sultanate eventually evolved in the languages of Indonesia and Malaysia; and today, the people of Riau are proud to claim that their Malay tongue is the purest and most original of the entire archipelago.


Batam: The Up And Coming Holiday Destination
 
20 kilometres away from Singapore and a favoured retreat for stressed-out Singaporeans, is the island of Batam. Unlike Bintan, Batam got its start an industrial centre, where many local and multinational companies settle their regional production operations. As a result, apart from business travellers, few people knew much about the island. In the past 10 years however, as international resorts and hotels began flocking to the island, Batam quickly became known as ‘that unspoilt vacation getaway noone knows about yet’, a reputation it still carries today, even as 5 star hotels spring up and word of its attractions leak out and spread around the region.
 
When comparing the two islands, share many physical characteristics with its sister island Bintan — long beaches, clear waters, and all. Also like Bintan, Batam is known for its excellent watersports and its well-tended golf courses, a particular attraction for international visitors. The difference between Bintan and Batam is that unlike the former, Batam has a wealth of budget accommodations, ranging from motels located in town to the rustic chalets by the beachside. The variety of accommodation choices makes the island a particular favourite of independent travellers who prefer to eschew package tours and jaunt around on their own.
 
Another area in which Batam differs from Bintan is in the activities available outside the resorts. Batam is a duty-free haven, and as a result the most popular activity is to indulge in retail therapy in Nagoya, the island’s main town. Nagoya offers plenty of little stores peddling everything from spirits to electronics at cutthroat prices. Visitors from Singapore and Malaysia who quake at today’s sky-high retail prices often nostalgically compare the price of goods sold here to those they purchased in ‘the good old days.’ Then there is Batam Centre, the island’s answer to Singapore’s Orchard Road, where the largest shoppinge centre — the Matahari — is located, as well as banks, atms, and other such necessities of life.
 
Another popular attraction in Nagoya is the Maha Vihara Duta Maitreya Buddhist Temple, though the locals don’t think of it as such. Many people still pray here everyday, paying little mind to camera clicks and whispers of the visitors. It is considered one of the largest Buddhist temples in the region, which is all the more remarkable for being built in a staunchly Muslim country. The temple draws thousands of devout worshippers from all around the region to pray and study.

Another sight sometimes visited is the controversial Dewi Kuong Imra monument. This statue is a tribute to the Buddhist goddess of prosperity and is located at the KTM station in Tanjung Pinggir. Much of the trouble surrounding it revolves around civic pride, as its massive 26 metre height makes it taller than the Garuda Nusantara monument at Batam’s international airport.
 
Apart from the shopping and sightseeing, there are also an abundance of clubs, discos and other night time entertainments available, mostly to cater to the fair-sized enclave of expatriates stationed on the island. As you’d expect from an island, Batam also has an abundance of excellent seafood restaurants. The really adventurous can even contemplate a trip to the highlands, where the temperature has varies from 16ºC to 26ºC and has been known to drop about 8ºC during the night.


The easiest way to get to Bintan and Batam is to make the water crossing from Singapore. Ferries to Bintan are available thrice-daily from the Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal and dock at the Bandar Bentan Terminal. Ferries ply every 30 minutes during daylight hours between Harbour Front Ferry Terminal and either Sekupang or Batu Ampur on the north coast of Bintam. You may need a visa and passport, depending on your country of origin, so it’s best to check first with the Indonesian embassy before you go. 
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Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Jaipur Life in Poem

Jaipur - Hawa Mahal
Jaipur - Hawa Mahal

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Here in Jaipur the old and new worlds meet;

The forts,the temples,and the palaces

Look out on legislative offices

And schools and hospitals.This wide grave street

Worn by three centuries of slippered feet

And tripping pads of camels branches out

In roads that go impartially to meet

Old pleasure-gardens and new factories.

Here is a future growing from past beauty

Owning past inspiration-and a duty

To all men of all trades to build a city

Known for flourish of its industries;

Its roads made smooth for ordinary men

And knowledge climbing stairs to soar again.

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Panorama View of Jaipur city
Panorama View of Jaipur city