Showing posts with label mumbaikar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mumbaikar. Show all posts

Thursday, February 28, 2013

The Mumbai Food Joints

Curry isn’t one particular dish, contrary to what the Indian Restaurant in your city may tell you. There are literally hundreds of types of curries that have no similarity to each other whatsoever. India is several countries within a country, culturally speaking, and with that comes a melting pot of several cuisines, variations, and fusions. And that’s what the cuisine of Mumbai is. Food is everything to the Mumbaikar. From socializing, to festivals to even journeys, our days just revolve around food. Just like anything Mumbai offers, even the food can be a sensory overload. You just don’t know where to begin. So here’s a list of the top Mumbai foods that you simply must sample to say you’ve truly tasted Mumbai with more than just a spoon. You might want to put on a bib before you continue reading!

1. Chaat

The essential street food, you’re sure to find a chaat (the chaa is pronounced as it is in char and not chat) seller with his wheeled stall, carrying his wares on a single stool, or with a strapped on tray standing at every street corner. Chaat is a collection of snacks made from fried small puris (like a tiny deep fried, puffed tortilla), mashed potatoes, raw onions, tomato, coriander, mint chutney, tamarind chutney, and a few spice powders. It’s fresh and a favorite on-the-go snack.
Mumbai-Chaat
Mumbai-Chaat
  • Paani Puri: Hollow fried puris, stuffed with mashed potatoes, boiled lentils, and a spicy mint water. Stand at the stall and hold out the small bowl he gives you, and have them one by one, as he serves them up. (A plate usually comprises 6 pieces) Pop an entire one into your mouth in one go, and enjoy the crunch of the puri as your mouth fills with a gush of spicy water.
  • Sev Puri: A flat fried puri (like a savory biscuit) topped with little mountains of boiled lentils, mashed potatoes, chopped onions, tomatoes, and topped with a sprinkling of sev, mint chutney, tamarind chutney, spices, and coriander leaves. Again, pop them in your mouth whole.
  • Bhel Puri: A plateful of puffed rice, mixed with tomatoes, chopped onions, peanuts, raw mango, sev, and the chutneys. A lip smacking dish, served in a large paper cone, with a puri for a spoon, gobble it up quickly before the paper disintegrates.

For a super safe hygienic restaurant experience: Swati Snacks, Trupti, Punjab Sweet House, Elco.  For an authentic roadside experience: Marine Drive Chowpatty or Juhu Chowpatty

2. Thaalis

“Atithi Devo Bhava” – an Indian saying that means the guest is a form of God. Treated like Gods you will be, especially when it comes to being served a Thaali. A Thaali is an all you can eat buffet that’s served to you right at your table. And nobody does it better than the Gujaratis and Rajasthanis. As the tagline of the most popular thali joint goes “We serve as long as you can eat.”
Rajasthani-Thaali-at-Golden-Star
Rajasthani-Thaali-at-Golden-Star

These all you can eat joints serve you like you’re family, with love, insisting you eat more (even if you’re already full). Typically, you choose from one of the thali options ( a regular, or a special). The difference normally being dessert or pricier seasonal produce. And as you sit at your table, liveried, turban wearing men in charge of different courses keep coming and serving up to a variety of 3 amuse bouches, 4 kinds of breads, 4 vegetables, 2 lentils, 5 relishes, a couple of different kinds of crisps, 3 kinds of rice, 4 kinds of yogurt, and of course, large spoonfuls of clarified butter.

Golden Star Thali is undoubtedly the best. Others worth mentioning are Chetana, Shree Thakker Bhojanalay, and Friends Union Joshi Club.

3. Dhaabas

Originally the rustic highway restaurants in North India that catered to big eater truckers, Dhabas have developed their own cuisine that comprises hardcore meat and super hot spice. Normally open air restaurants with Tandoors (extra large coal barbeques) and low seating on bamboo cots, dhabas are where you go dressed down and eat with your hands. Enjoy wholesome Punjabi dishes like Makke di Roti (Flat cornbread), Sarson da Saag (Mustard leaves and lentils) Chicken Tandoori (which needs no introduction), and tall glasses of a heavy yogurt smoothie called Lassi.
Rajasthani-Thaali-at-Golden-Star
Rajasthani-Thaali-at-Golden-Star

Experience this from the comfort of a nice restaurant that’s recreated the Dhaba theme at Papa Pancho’s or Pritam da Dhaba. Or step out of the city and visit a real one on the Western Express highway like Dara da Dhaba, but cover up and bring the mosquito repellant.

4. Irani Cafes

A fast disappearing breed of the most charming cafes Mumbai and Bombay has ever seen, Irani cafes are over 100 years old. What started as a way for immigrant Iranians to bond over tea turned into a great place for cheap eats. Most Irani joints are still stuck in time, and you’re sure to find old timers sitting at their usual tables. You’ll feel like time has stopped for you, too, when you sit on those vintage wood and cane chairs, propping your arm on those same glass topped tables that have been sitting there for years.
Irani-Cafe-Kyani-Co
Irani-Cafe-Kyani-Co

By the speed at which the waiters work, you will have reason to believe they’ve been around just as long. Try the signature favorite: Bun Maska Chai – Buttered bread, dipped in immensely sweet Irani tea. Try Akuri – spicy scrambled eggs with freshly baked bread. Another great dish to try is the Kheema Pav – Spicy minced meat served with bread.

Visit the iconic centenarian Kyani & Co. or Good Luck.

5. Parsi Bhonu

Not to be confused with the Irani’s, the Parsis are the second batch of immigrants – Persians. There’s a nuance of a difference in the Bhonu (food), while the atmosphere and ambience at a Parsi restaurant is pretty much indistinguishable from that of an Irani Cafe. Fondly referred to as Bawas, the Parsis are a loud, eccentric, and friendly bunch, and if the owner’s at the cash desk as usual, he’s sure to chatter away with you.
Lagan-nu-Custard-at-Britannia-Co
Lagan-nu-Custard-at-Britannia-Co

The best Parsi dishes to try are Dhansak Rice ( a mutton-lentil curry), Patra ni Macchi (Banana leaf fish) and Lagan nu Custard (caramel custard!). Accompany these lip smacking eats with a bottle of Duke’s Raspberry Soda (strangely only available at Parsi joints and Parsi weddings).

Mumbai’s favourite Parsi restaurants are Jimmy Boy and Britannia & Co..

6. Mughlai

Mughlai is the delectable cuisine left behind by the Mughal empire in Hyderabad, Delhi, and Pakistan. The food is rich, meaty, elaborate, and flavored with an array of spices. The first dish to sample is the Mutton Biryani. A rich saffron and milk tinged rice cooked over a coal fire in gigantic pots with intense spices and large pieces of mutton. The lid is sealed shut with dough as it cooks, preserving the aroma that you can smell from a mile away. A sign of a good Biryani is when the meat falls of the bone, the bone is almost edible, and the spices and onion have caught to the bottom of the vessel till almost burnt. Other favorites include Haleem (A thick lentil soup where the beef has practically melted). An array of kebabs (small hors d’oeuvre sized pieces of meat) are a great starter to be eaten with mint chutney. The sweets, most of which are deep fried, are extra heavy with sugar syrup, rose water, spices, milk, and eggs. Try a small bite of the heart attack inducing Malpua.
Mutton-Kadhai-at-a-street-stall
Mutton-Kadhai-at-a-street-stall

The mecca for Mughlai cuisine is a pop-up food street that occurs during Ramazan every year at Mohammad Ali Road. But if you aren’t lucky enough to be in Mumbai then, schedule a meal at Lucky’s, Kareem’s, or Jaffer Bhai’s. You won’t be disappointed.

7. Coastal Cuisine

Mumbai’s coastal cuisine is actually three different types of cuisine from Mangalore, Goa, and  Maalwan. All three are distinctly varied, but have one commonality – fresh seafood. We love the Mangalorean Crab Gassi. A thick curry with crab in the shell that’s super messy, but equally delicious to eat. Try Appams – delicate crepes made with fermented rice flour. Goan food has undertones of Portuguese influence, an unmissable base of palm vinegar. The iconic Goa Pork Sausages (sausages pickled in a Vindaloo/ Sorpotel), Fried Fish in Rechad Masala, and Fish Curry Rice are all dishes to try at a Goan restaurant.
Fish-Thaali-and-Fish-fry-at-Highway-Gomantak
Fish-Thaali-and-Fish-fry-at-Highway-Gomantak

Up next is sadly the last thing you’ll find on any Mumbai food list, just because it’s been a pretty well kept secret. Originating from the Maalwan coast in Maharashtra  is another spicy kind of seafood, where the meal begins with a sour-spicy coconut milk based drink to prepare your stomach. Choose from light, moist, and crispy Fried Bombay Duck (that’s actually a fish) and Teesrya (Clams) or a dish that looks like scrambled eggs but is actually tiny nail sized prawns.

Our picks for the best Mangalorean food is Excellensea, best Goan at New Martins, and the best Maalwani at Highway Gomantak.

8. Udipis

Udipi cuisine, originating from Udipi in South India, is what we call Saatvik (Pure). No onions, no garlic, no meats, or seafood. The limited food groups make for some extremely innovative cuisine, and coming from a hardcore meat eater, I assure you, it tastes great! And you’ll always walk away feeling healthy. Try the Mysore Masala Dosa, rice flour crepes spread with a spicy chutney and then wrapped around spiced potatoes. You eat it with your hands, dipping little bits of it in a spicy sambar soup and some coconut chutney. Another dish worth tasting is the Idli Vada Sambar. Steamed buns and fried fritters made of fermented rice flour, dipped in sambar and chutney, is a breakfast staple for many.
Uthappam-and-Rava-Dosa-at-Shiv-Sagar
Uthappam-and-Rava-Dosa-at-Shiv-Sagar

Head to Shetty’s on Grant Road, or try any outlet of the Shiv Sagar chain. For a slight variation in style, try the iconic Madras Cafe as well.

9. Indian Chinese

Chinese food available in India is almost unrecognizable to anyone who’s familiar with authentic chinese food. Mumbai has spiced it up and created all sorts of innovative fusion dishes right on the streets. You’re sure to pass by the brightly painted carts, woks ablaze, Chinese looking men who aren’t actually from China, whipping up never heard of dishes like Triple Schezwan, Chinese Bhel (crispy fried noodles in a spicy schezuan paste), and Chicken Lollipops (Scarlet coloured batter fried chicken legs), to name a few. Manchurian (Salty and Brown) and Szechuan (Spicy and Red) are the two primary flavors, and everything (from Chicken to Rice to Noodles) comes in those two flavors. I must warn you, it’s a heart attack on a plate, but innovative and lip-smacking nonetheless.
Chicken-Lollipops-at-Tea-Center
Chicken-Lollipops-at-Tea-Center

You’re sure to come across several stalls on the roads. Most of these stalls open as late at 8pm and operate up to 11 pm.

10. Indianized global chains

Picture this, you’re walking down the street in Mumbai, and you spot a logo. A familiar logo that instantly transports you home. You may never have thought much of it back home, but here, miles away, it’s familiar and comforting. Before you run into a McDonald’s or KFC, read on. Most Indian’s need their spice, and most Indian’s would never eat beef. Welcome to a beef-free McDonalds, where you’ll find Masala Tikka Wraps with lots of onion and Indian veggies. You’ll get chicken, you’ll get fish, but that’s about it. In short, all the global standard food has been tweaked for Indian consumers, and now even your Starbucks serves up an Indian Espresso Roast.
McDonalds
McDonalds

Try the Indian take on McDonald’s, KFC, Subway, Quiznos, Baskin Robbins, Pizza Hut, Starbucks etc

11. The global palate

Mumbaikars love their food, but they’ve started enjoying the food of others as well. And you can now find some pretty good international cuisines in Mumbai. So if you’re craving a nice gourmet experience or want a place to celebrate while on your travels, try one of these.
Hakkasan
Hakkasan

Poco Loco for the Tapas, Salt Water Cafe for Carpaccio, Hakkasan or Yauatcha for Michelin Starred Chinese, Ziya for preplated Michelin Starred Indian, Indigo, Moshes, EscoBar or any of the restaurants at five star hotels.

A word of caution on Bombay belly

Now that I’ve tempted you to go get an upset tummy, let me tell you how not to let it get in the way of these amazing experiences. Avoid the water and try bottled drinks instead. In the cheaper joints, that also means you might want to avoid using the glasses and drink straight out of a bottle. Avoid it even if they say they have filtered water. Carry wet tissues to wipe your hands before eating. And don’t overdo it no matter how much your taste buds love it. Most restaurants serve a tummy cooler (a milk or yogurt based drink like sol kadi or chaas) to temper the spicy food.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Experience of travelling in a Mumbai Local Train


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The Mumbai Local Trains are the first things that come up in your mind when you think of Mumbai apart from the Red BEST buses ,  yellow and black Premier Padmini Taxis and the Bhelpuri and Panipuri at chowpatty!!! The local trains are the backbone of the city that never sleeps, which carry 6.6 million mumbaikars from home to work and back home in the evening. The trains are referred to as  ‘Locals’ by Mumbaikars and constitute almost half of the total population that travels on Indian Railway each day!!! These trains are a cause of marvel for people who have never travelled in them but for those who travel in them everyday, its  “survival of the fittest“!!!

There are 3 lines for the Locals – Western , Central and Harbour which have multiple stations but the most famous among the public has to be the Virar Fast Local which in itself is a planet after it starts from Churchgate. During peak hours ( Morning and Evening ) it carries almost 6000 people when the maximum capacity is just 1700 people. People just keep jumping in at all stations with just a couple of them getting out and this results in a jam-pack situation which is almost normal for daily travellers!!! With no space to even move a muscle , people start climbing on the roof tops of the train so they can atleast reach home without being squeezed to death!!!
These are some of the do’s and dont’s while travelling in a Local to avoid getting killed and reaching home in one piece!!!
  • Always search for a big fat guy who will ram through the crowd to get in first and position yourself behind him if you wanna get in without being kicked in the balls  and elbowed in the eye!!!
  • Scientists say wearing heels is not good for your back but while traveling in a Local, wear a high-heeled footwear else you will end up smelling the armpit of the guy beside you and in a jam-packed train you will have smelly armpits all around you and for females, wearing high heels is an advantage as it can be used as a weapon for kicking while getting in the train!!!
  • A Local also helps in cutting costs by taking care of the ironing of clothes…you just have to wear them all messed up while getting in , but when you get out it will be crisp ironed, better than what your dhobi does!!! And you will also learn how to glide without moving your legs….when a Local pulls into a station, you won’t have to even move your legs…you getting in the train will be taken care of by the  crowd behind you….you will effortlessly glide into the train!!!
  • A Local is also beneficial in providing services by “blessed” Godmen like Bengali Baba, Thagddam Sheikh, Iswar Bhopali and many more. You just have to scan the train for stickers and pamphlets for such divine intervention to get instant relief from problems in marriage , love life , job , sex life , impotency ( which they claim can be cured in one “private” visit by the wife , and after the child is born the father is bloody confused at the striking resemblance of the kid to the Godman!!! ) , and some other wierd sounding stuffs like muttthkarni , vashikaran , mooolsutra , chinnmasta etc. within 24 hours.  So if you want complete happiness in life just go to these babas you see in the Local with your most crazzzy problems and thy will be blessed!!! ( Warning - If your kid ends up looking like Baba Bengali or Thagddam Sheikh , I’m not to be held responsible!!! ) . Also the Locals are filled with ads for syrups and tablets for “extra” sexual pleasure and increasing the size and dimensions of your “tools” . Fools who do buy such stuff end up eating sugar pills or sugar syrup instead of anything medicinal with no change in the dimensions of their “tools”…Looooooosers!!!
  • Never ever climb up onto the roof of the Local unless ,ofcourse you want to end up looking like a burnt tandoori chicken because of the 25000 watt overhead wire…but then getting squashed in the compartment in a Virar Local with no space to even move your eyelid, is like the worst nightmare ever. Many consider the 1st option better than getting into the hell-hole and so you have people either getting stuck to the overhead  wire or getting blown off the roof onto the tracks!!! During peak hours even ticket checkers don’t have the guts to get into a Local to check if people have tickets but you will find vendors selling hairclips, cellphone covers and pirated novels in the same train!!!
  • If you are a daily traveller by the Local during peak hours, then you don’t need to visit a gym or workout to burn calories as the Local itself acts as a steam and sauna bath with almost no space for air flow and people sweating all over you ( and some even wipe their sweaty foreheads and arms on the guy standing in front….how ewwwww is that !!!! ) . People don’t get a place to even stand but there will be groups singing bhajans with instruments in place that will put a music studio to shame!!! People say “Arre train khaaali hai” when they can get a spot to plant their feet without being kicked or elbowed or shouted at with the choicest of expletives!!!
  • You never will need to learn yoga or different breathing exercises for strong lungs…travelling in a Local is in itself an intense exercise which will put all your muscles to test and due to the crowd, getting even a whiff of fresh air is next to impossible ( unless you get a window seat or are hanging on the doors or waiting to get fried on the roof!!!! ) ,so people who are regular travellers in the Locals have strong lungs and are physically and mentally more fit to endure pain and torture!!!
  • The government has come up with a mindblasssting plan of deploying PUSHERS for pushing the crowd into the Local!!! These Pushers will be waiting on the platform when a Local comes along during the peak hours and when people are trying to get in…they’ll help by pushing people into the train!!! How cool is that ehhh??!!!??? This technique is in place in China for a couple of years now…lets hope it works with the Indian Public too!!! But is the public ready to be herded around like a herd of cows???? What if the Pushers push from only one side and the people standing at the other side get pushed off the train because the Locals in Mumbai don’t have automatic doors!!! That will be a funny sight…people being pushed in from one side and people falling down from the other!!!

These do’s and dont’s will help you survive the nightmare known as The Local!!! The Local has its own share of good and bad things for the public but I’m sure, with better administration and planning, the Locals will only get better for the zillions of Mumbaikars!!!
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